Match-it 研究室|如何分辨優質時裝?衣服品質與選購指南/ How to Recognise Quality Clothing?

Match-it 研究室|如何分辨優質時裝?衣服品質與選購指南/ How to Recognise Quality Clothing?

點解兩件睇落差唔多嘅衫,價錢可以差一倍?

一件衫嘅品質,唔係單靠「厚唔厚」、「摸落軟唔軟」或者價錢去判斷。

真正嘅分別,往往藏喺 布料、紗線、車工、紙樣、造工細節,以及洗過之後嘅穩定性。

今次由 Match-it 店內常見嘅日本品牌出發,分享 5 個可以自己觀察嘅位置。

 

1. Fabric & Yarn|布料與紗線

Tips #1

點解同樣係 100% Cotton,質感可以差咁遠?

「100% Cotton」只代表纖維成分,唔代表棉嘅品質完全一樣。

棉纖維長短、紡紗方式、紗線粗幼,以至後期整理工序,都會影響最後嘅手感及耐用程度。

較講究嘅棉質面料,可能會使用:

  • 較長、較整齊嘅棉纖維
  • 精梳棉(Combed Cotton),去除較多短纖維及雜質
  • 較細緻、均勻嘅紡紗
  • 更完整嘅後期整理工序

通常可以帶來:

  • 表面較平滑
  • 毛羽較少
  • 觸感較細緻
  • 洗後較容易保持原有質感

但亦要留意:

表面粗糙唔一定代表品質差。

有啲日本品牌會刻意利用不同紗線、織法及加工,造出洗水感、天然皺感或者較粗獷嘅表面。

例如 Match-it 有售嘅 tumugu:、Veritecoeur、Vlas Blomme,布料本身就係設計非常重要嘅一部分。

所以判斷布料,唔係單純:

「愈滑=愈好」。

而係要睇:

呢種紗線及布料處理,係咪配合件衫想呈現嘅效果。

💡 同樣一行「100% Cotton」,實際質感、成本同穿著效果可以差好遠。

 

2. Sewing|車工

Tips #2

唔係車線愈密就一定愈好

睇一件衫嘅車工,可以留意:

  • 線腳是否平均
  • 車線是否筆直
  • 左右位置是否對稱
  • 接駁位是否整齊
  • 線張力是否穩定
  • 受力位置有冇適當加固

可以試下:

👉 翻開側骨、袖底、領口、袋口睇一睇。

造工好嘅衣服,外面整齊之餘,入面通常亦會處理得比較乾淨。

另外,Chain Stitch、Lockstitch 等不同線跡,本身並冇簡單嘅「高級/低級」之分。

真正重要嘅係:

有冇因應布料、彈性及受力位置,使用適合嘅縫製方法。

例如 Match-it 店內嘅 ichi、YARRA、nachukara、LAITERIE 等日本品牌,大家睇衫時除咗正面,其實亦可以反轉睇吓接縫、領口同袖口嘅處理。

有時價錢嘅差異,正正藏喺呢啲第一眼睇唔到嘅地方。


3. Pattern|紙樣 / 版型

Tips #3

點解同樣係闊身衫,著上身可以差咁遠?

呢個係我覺得最值得留意嘅地方之一。

Oversized ≠ 將普通紙樣直接放大。

一個經過仔細開發嘅闊身版型,會考慮:

  • 肩線位置
  • 落肩角度
  • 袖窿深度
  • 袖型
  • 前後幅比例
  • 衫身闊度
  • 衣長
  • 布料本身嘅垂墜度

如果只係單純將紙樣放大,可能會出現:

  • 膊位怪
  • 腋下拉扯
  • 袖位唔自然
  • 前後比例失衡
  • 明明係鬆身,著落反而顯得臃腫

Match-it 有幾個品牌特別適合大家觀察呢樣嘢:

mizuiro ind
經常運用寬鬆、落肩、不對稱及立體輪廓。平放睇可能非常簡單,但著上身先會見到比例。

Veritecoeur
好多款式非常寬鬆,但重點唔係單純「大」,而係衣身、肩袖同布料垂墜之間嘅關係。

Vlas Blomme
尤其麻質服裝,版型要同布料本身嘅垂墜、皺褶及穿著後變化一齊考慮。

所以有時兩件衫掛喺衣架:

睇落都係「一件闊身衫」。

但真正著上身,比例可以完全唔同。

好多日本品牌嘅成本,其中一部分就花喺你未必睇得到嘅:

紙樣開發 → Sample → 試身 → 修改 → 再試版。

呢個亦係點解有啲衫一定要 著上身先明白。


4. Garment Construction|成衣造工

Tips #4

有啲成本,其實藏喺件衫入面

一件衫外表可以非常簡單,但翻開入面,就可能睇到好多細節。

例如:

  • 袋口有冇加固
  • 受力位置有冇打棗(Bartack)
  • 鈕門位置有冇適當加襯
  • 領口有冇穩定處理
  • 反轉件衫,睇內裡接縫、車線及布邊收口是否整齊。
  • 包邊是否乾淨
  • 接駁位置是否仔細處理

尤其係 Vlas Blomme、Veritecoeur、D/d、drowse and yet… 呢類 Match-it 有售品牌,有時一件衫正面睇非常簡單,但值得留意嘅反而係:

袋、領、袖口、接縫,以至件衫入面。

呢啲細節未必係第一眼會見到,

但往往會影響一件衫經過多次穿著、洗滌之後,仲可唔可以保持原本嘅形態。

💡 下次睇衫,可以試下反轉件衫——有時入面比正面更加能夠睇到造工。


5. Garment Stability|成衣穩定性

Tips #5

點解有啲 T-shirt 洗完會「扭」?

有冇試過:

新買返嚟時,件 T-shirt 側骨明明係直嘅。

洗幾次之後……

👉 條側骨慢慢扭咗去前面。

呢種情況一般稱為:

Spirality / Seam Twisting(扭斜)

成因可以包括:

  • 紗線本身嘅扭力
  • 針織布結構
  • 裁剪方向
  • 布料整理
  • 預縮及定型處理

控制得比較好嘅衣服,經過正常洗滌後,通常較容易保持原本嘅形態。

控制較差,就可能洗幾次之後開始:

側骨扭斜、衫身變形。

所以有一樣嘢係買新衫嗰刻好難判斷:

「洗完之後仲靚唔靚?」

例如店內 VM、drowse and yet…、Veritecoeur 等都有唔少日常棉質款式。

買呢類 Basic Item,我反而覺得除咗新衫摸上手嘅感覺,更值得留意嘅係:

著一段時間、洗過好多次之後,件衫仲保持成點。


Match-it 研究室 🔍

其實「優質」唔等於:

愈厚愈好、愈軟愈好、車線愈密愈好。

甚至唔一定係:

Made in Japan = 一定好。

真正值得睇嘅係:

布料 × 紗線 × 紙樣 × 車工 × 細節 × 穩定性

有時一件日本衫睇落非常簡單,甚至第一眼會令人諗:

「點解一件咁簡單嘅衫要呢個價錢?」

答案未必係一個好搶眼嘅 Design。

反而可能係睇唔到嘅——

布料選擇、紙樣開發、試版、縫製方法,以及洗過好多次之後仍然保持到嘅質感。

呢啲,先係一件衫要著過一段時間先慢慢睇得到嘅價值。

下一次買衫,不妨除咗睇款之外,
翻開件衫入面睇一睇😊

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How to Recognise Quality Clothing #1

What makes a piece of clothing “good quality”?

It is not simply about how thick the fabric feels, how soft it is, or how much it costs.

The real difference often lies in the fabric, yarn, sewing, pattern cutting, construction and garment stability.

Here are 5 things you can look for.


1. Fabric & Yarn

Tips #1

Why can two garments labelled “100% Cotton” feel completely different?

“100% Cotton” only tells you the fibre content.
It does not tell you the quality of the cotton or yarn.

Higher-quality cotton fabrics may use:

  • Longer and more uniform cotton fibres

  • Combed cotton, with more short fibres and impurities removed

  • Finer and more consistent yarns

  • More carefully controlled finishing processes

These can result in:

  • A smoother surface

  • Less visible fuzz

  • A more refined hand feel

  • Better durability after repeated washing

Fabrics made with shorter fibres or simpler spinning and finishing processes may become rougher or show more fuzz and pilling over time.

💡 So when buying a cotton garment, don’t judge it by “100% Cotton” alone.

The same fibre-content label can represent very different levels of quality.

At Match-it, you can see this particularly well in Japanese brands such as Vlas Blomme, Veritecoeur, Tumugu and LAITERIE, where the character and finishing of the fabric are often an important part of the garment itself.


2. Sewing

Tips #2

More stitches do not automatically mean better sewing.

When checking the sewing quality of a garment, look at:

  • Whether the stitches are even

  • Whether the seams run straight

  • Whether left and right sides are balanced

  • Whether joining points are clean

  • Whether the thread tension is consistent

  • Whether stress points are properly reinforced

Try turning the garment inside out and looking at the:

👉 Side seams, underarms, pocket openings and joining points.

A well-made garment is usually not only neat on the outside —
the inside tells you a lot too.

Different stitches, such as chain stitch and lockstitch, are designed for different purposes. One is not automatically “better” than the other.

What matters is whether the right construction method has been chosen for the fabric, stretch and function of the garment.


3. Pattern Cutting

Tips #3

Why can two oversized tops look similar on a hanger, but completely different when worn?

This is one of the most overlooked — and most valuable — parts of clothing design.

Oversized ≠ simply making a standard pattern bigger.

A carefully developed oversized silhouette considers:

  • Shoulder position

  • Drop-shoulder angle

  • Armhole depth

  • Sleeve shape

  • Front-to-back balance

  • Body width

  • Garment length

  • The drape and weight of the fabric

Simply enlarging a basic pattern can result in:

  • Awkward shoulders

  • Pulling around the underarms

  • Unnatural sleeves

  • Poor front-to-back balance

  • A silhouette that looks bulky rather than intentionally relaxed

This is particularly noticeable in some of the Japanese brands carried by Match-it, such as mizuiro ind, Veritecoeur and Vlas Blomme.

Their clothes can look extremely simple on a hanger.

But once you put them on, you begin to notice the balance, volume and proportion.

A significant part of what you are paying for is something you cannot immediately see:

pattern development, sampling, fitting and adjustment.


4. Garment Construction

Tips #4

Some of the cost is hidden inside the garment.

A garment may look very simple from the outside.

Turn it inside out, however, and you may start to notice the difference.

Look for details such as:

  • Reinforced pocket openings

  • Bartacks at stress points

  • Proper interfacing around buttonholes

  • Stabilised necklines

  • Clean seam allowances

  • Neat binding and finishing

  • Carefully finished joining points

These details may not immediately catch your eye in the fitting room.

But after repeated wearing and washing, they can make a real difference to how well a garment holds its shape and structure.

💡 Sometimes the most interesting side of a garment is the inside.

This attention to construction is one reason we enjoy selecting Japanese brands such as Ichi, Tumugu, Veritecoeur, Vlas Blomme and mizuiro ind at Match-it.


5. Garment Stability

Tips #5

Why do some T-shirts “twist” after washing?

Here is a simple quality check you can do at home.

When a T-shirt is new, its side seam runs straight down the side.

After several washes, however, you may notice:

👉 The side seam has gradually twisted towards the front or back.

This is known as spirality or seam twisting.

Possible causes include:

  • Yarn twist

  • Knitted fabric structure

  • Cutting direction

  • Fabric finishing

  • Insufficient shrinkage or stabilisation control

A well-controlled fabric and garment construction will generally maintain its original shape more consistently after normal washing.

This is why some quality differences are difficult to see when a garment is brand new.

You may only discover them after the 10th wash.


Match-it Lab 🔍

Good quality does not necessarily mean thicker fabric, softer fabric, more stitches — or simply “Made in Japan.”

The country of manufacture alone does not determine the quality of a garment.

A well-made garment depends on whether the fabric is appropriate, the pattern has been carefully developed, the sewing and construction suit the design, and the garment can maintain its original texture and silhouette after repeated wear and washing.

Next time you shop for clothes, don’t just look at the design or the country-of-origin label.

Turn the garment inside out and take a closer look.😊

 

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